September 11th

When I first arrived I wasn’t sure how well I’d settle into life here; I knew it would be beautiful but I was also fully aware of the implications of a tropical environment, mosquitoes, cold water showers and limited electricity. I wondered if my three week assignment would be just enough time to get a taste of Madagascar before I tired of the lack of creature comforts. Today (Thursday the 11th) marks two weeks since I left Portland and almost two full weeks here on Nosy Komba and the time is passing with a frightening speed. I can’t imagine I could ever tire of the incredible views of the sea from my hut - morning, afternoon and night. There are so many small things that make me smile and appreciate moments as they occur, and more than anything - that I can be here to experience this. The chicken who herds her little brood around camp, cautiously watching all the passersby as her chicks chirp away, pecking and scratching at the ground. The rooster whose cries wake me every morning, to the point that I have begun to recognize the mornings when his vocal cords aren’t fully awake yet and he needs a few practice runs before he gets going. The puppy that belongs to the neighbors that is so adorably cut but we aren’t allow to pet because we are trying to discourage him from coming to camp - I still love watching him play on the beach, chasing and pouncing on imaginary creatures. I love him a little less on the nights when he finds something disturbing that causes him to bark for long intervals. The smiles and waves from the children in the village. The sound of gentle waves against the rocks when I lay in bed.

Last night the camp was quiet since the foresters went for an overnight hike up the mountain and I was up later than usual, curled up under my mosquito net reading a mystery. Perhaps it was because the book was at a very suspenseful point, perhaps it was quieter than I was used to since I was up well after most people had gone to bed, but it was the first time I felt a little creeped out in my open front hut. I heard some hooting noises I couldn’t place, most sounded a ways off but then I could have sworn I heard something moving right next to my hut and the distinct sound of crunching and munching on something. I turned on my headlamp and slunk outside, scanning the area but didn’t see a thing. I went back into my mosquito net cave and continued reading, stopping now and again to listen. At breakfast I learned the strange hooting sounds were the lemurs who couldn’t sleep because of the full moon. It was suspected that the crunching was likely Momma Cat snacking on a lizard. She had kittens just before I arrived and when I checked on them today two were just at the point of opening their eyes! Momma cat is a tiny little thing, always wandering around looking for something to eat but she’s sweet and her demanding meows remind me of Bilbo. 

There was a festival in the village today so we only had one class with the staff at camp which left the teachers with much more free time than usual - after breakfast I went for a snorkel to the reef and swam with a sea turtle. I dried off on the beach and thoroughly enjoyed watching two of the local boys playing soccer with one of the volunteers. For the first time the cold shower didn’t feel all that cold anymore and I was comfortable putting my entire body in the full stream instead of just sticking each body part under the stream, one at a time, to wash and rinse it individually. I look forward to staff class each day, most recently I’ve been working with two of the adult staff who work incredibly hard to learn English and take their worksheets away to do homework without prompting. I had promised that I would ask some other students in the adult class in the village for the malagasy word for the expression “to catch a bus”. Interestingly I discovered that there are two different Malagasy words for “catch” - one is used to catch a bus, taxi, etc, while the other is used to catch a fish. Even the Malagasy dictionary is limited in what assistance it can offer since some words vary regionally and all the dictionaries are based on Malagasy from the capital, Antananarivo, in the central highland area of Madagascar while in Nosy Komba they speak the Sakalava dialect of northern Madagascar.

Teaching is such a challenge but it’s one that I truly enjoy. Each day’s lesson planning reminds me of how much I take for granted at home. I review the various books we have on hand to prepare and am still surprised at how many lessons don’t apply to our students, simply because they aren't relevant; they don’t have electricity and there are no banks on the island, saving money, as in putting it away for the future, is almost incomprehensible. Yesterday a student asked me if “God” was the correct word in English. We checked the dictionary together to confirm. Then she wrote “Help me God” on a piece of paper and asked me if that was correct. So many thoughts rushed through my head at the same time - I told her that yes, if she wanted to pray that would be correct but I wanted so badly to ask her what she needed and how I could help her.

There are four volunteers leaving this weekend and eleven new volunteers arriving. It’s sad to think about the people who are leaving our little community, and each of them seems glum to leave camp as well. I’m starting to feel a little melancholy about the prospect of leaving in just over a week. I know many people have extended their stay in the past and I can understand why; if I were in a different time and space in life, perhaps I would do the same.

Today is not only another 9/11 anniversary but also Pippin’s birthday. We haven’t had internet on Nosy Komba since the weekend and it seems that I may not even be able to post this until the upcoming weekend so the internet challenges continue. Overall I don’t mind being disconnected but there are definitely moments it becomes painful. Earlier this week when I was in Hellville for a class we teach a few times a week, I was able to email Russ and get online. I asked for a picture of Pippin’s new haircut but I haven’t had the opportunity to connect and get a glimpse of life back in the US yet. It’s a little disconcerting being so isolated from the rest of the world on a physical level and having little to no communication as well. As magical as this place is, I don’t know that I could ever fully adjust to being here for a longer time unless Russ, Pippin and Bilbo were here with me. 

Happy Birthday Pippin!!!